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Tannages

Some popular tanning options are Vegetable-tanned and Chrome-tanned. Although there are more tannage options, these two are more known and referred too the most. Both options has there place in the leather working world.

Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannins extracted from vegetable matter, such as tree bark prepared in bark mills. It is the oldest known method. It is supple and light brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of materials and the color of the skin. The color tan derives its name from the appearance of undyed vegetable-tanned leather. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, and if left to soak and then dry, it shrinks and becomes harder, a feature of vegetable-tanned leather that is exploited in traditional shoemaking. In hot water, it shrinks drastically and partly congeals, becoming rigid and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an example of this, where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in boiling water, or in wax or similar substances. Historically, it was occasionally used as armor after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding.

Chrome-tanned leather is tanned using chromium sulfate and other chromium salts. It is also known as “wet blue” for the pale blue color of the undyed leather. The chrome tanning method usually takes approximately one day to complete, making it best suited for large-scale industrial use. This is the most common method in modern use. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. However, there are environmental concerns with this tanning method, as chromium is a heavy metal; while the trivalent chromium used for tanning is harmless, other byproducts can contain toxic variants. The method was developed in the latter half of the 19th century as tanneries wanted to find ways to speed up the process and to make leather more waterproof.

What leather do I use for my products?

Most of my leather goods use leathers that have been Vegetable-tanned. You will always find what leather was used, tannage and the tannery in my product descriptions. This makes it easy for you to know exactly what you are purchasing. I always try to find the best leathers for the price to ensure the highest quality.

Buttero leather from Conceria Walpier Tannery in Italy make an incredible premium full-grain vegetable-tanned leather that comes in many different colours from the tannery. It’s firm with a very tight grain which allows it keeps its shape and will have an incredible patina overtime. Buttero has a very nice smooth satin look to it, meaning it’s not super glossy when it’s new but overtime when the patina builds, it will get a natural shine. This leather is extremely premium feeling, has a nice consistent colour and smells amazing. After trying multiple other leathers, I always tend to gravitate back to Buttero due to its unique characteristics.

Horween “The Horween Leather Company has set the standard for the highest quality leathers since 1905.” Quoted directly from Horween. One of the most well-known leathers available. Being an American company located in Chicago, it’s been highly popular for use of American made products and is now found all over the world. Popular for its Shell Cordovan and its Chromexcel leathers. Horween leather has that premium feel with many different options such as colour and textures. Producing some of the best Veg-Tan leathers and combination tanned leathers, Horween has been doing this for a long time and the results show in the quality of each hide. Hoping to being able to implement more Horween leathers in my products in the future.

I am always experimenting with different leathers to see if it’s a leather I like working with and what I could use them for in the future. Such as Sepici Leathers, Arif & Sons Buffalo Leathers, Conceria La Bretagna Leathers and others.